Tag: golden gate NP

The most popular walk in the park is the Gorge walk. Talk to any South African who has been here and they will have almost certainly hiked the Gorge track.
About a year later we worked with a South African in England and his reaction was “You’ve done the gorge walk! I can’t believe it!” Anyone would think we had kidnapped Nelson Mandela and dragged him with us!

Anyway I don’t know what all the fuss is about. Even at a 22.5 kilometres roundtrip it’s an easy track that starts in the middle of the park and ends at the Amphitheatre.
However with little time and brooding dark thunderstorm clouds hovering above us we set off to do this walk in an afternoon. There was another South African couple (they’re everywhere) who we followed then eventually led, that were looking nervously at the thickening and darkening clouds. “She’ll be right, Mate” I said encouragingly as we past them for what seemed to be the tenth time. The problem with that theory was that it wasn’t shared by what seemed to be an army of Black Africans who were all going in the opposite direction.
They had been maintaining the trail and I suppose might have been knocking off for the day.

The walk itself was great! We skirted ridges, climbed gentle grassed hills, passed through small patches of rainforest, crossed creeks and the river Tugela before popping up at the gorge itself.
And that was where we had to stop!
We had run out of time.
If we carried on into the gorge we would have been faced with crossing the fast running Tugela a number of times plus hoisting ourselves out of the gorge using a chain ladder; all of which would have slowed us down. So with darkness probably only a couple of hours away we did the sensible thing and turned back.
All the way back we grumbled to ourselves that we should have gone on and to hell with the circumstances. We stopped grumbling about 5 minutes out of the park when the heavens opened, the sky lit up and bellowed. In 5 seconds flat we couldn’t see a thing!

Being in Southern Africa we did however see lots of Baboons.
Let me rephrase that we actually heard them first as they went from rubbish bin to rubbish bin, in the early hours of the morning, scavenging at whatever scraps were to be had. They left crap everywhere and they were still dining on the fruits of their spoils when we got up.
I noticed that no one made any attempt to ‘sho’ them away, this was apparently for a good reason, “they’re bloody vicious little pricks,” said the South African guy staying in the next hut. “Baboons are a problem all over Southern Africa” he continued “most parks have baboon proof bins to prevent all this mess”.

He and his wife were up from Durban some 300 kilometres south for a few days and like nearly all white South Africans we came across seemed to know someone in Perth.
Back in the last days of Apartheid a lot of whites left for Australia and either settled in Sydney or Perth.
Perth attracted a lot due simply to its proximity to South Africa and with a similar beach life style, it has a lot in common with Durban. In fact there was a saying “will the last one leaving for Perth please turn out the lights”.

Royal Natal National park is the Drakensberg. Huge jagged peaks form the spectacular and well known “Amphitheatre”. Looking like the bottom row of perfectly level teeth (you know the ones, the actress’s from ‘Days of our Lives’ all have them) with an incisor, Mount Amery (3143 metres and Sentinel (3165 metres, standing at either end, this wall of rock dominates the park. It has a mythical look about it that makes you think that beyond it lies a different world waiting to be discovered.
Well actually there is, Lesotho!